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Angelfish Eggs – The Preparation

I currently own a breeding pair of angels, and have decided that the next time that they lay eggs, I will remove and raise them.  Why remove them from their parents? Well my pair have a history of eating their eggs, even when alone with them…currently they are in my community tank, so it’s rather unlikely that they’ll be successful in caring for the eggs.

Before they lay the eggs, I need to prepare a few things: a hatchery to keep the eggs in, some fungiside to protect the eggs, a grow-out tank, an air stone, sponge, the leg off a pair of tights, a heater, salt  and some brine shrimp hatcheries. More detail to follow…

The hatchery - this is basically where the spawn will first be placed.  It needs to be big enough for the spawning site (plant/slate) to fit into, as well as an airstone, but small enough so that, when free-swimming, the fry feel secure and can be easily fed.  This time I am using a larger, wide vase, compared to last time when I used a 40 litre tank, which resulted in blue silicon (from the meth blue), as well as very difficult feeding times!

Fungicide – the two most common fungicides used for this are meth blue and acriflavin.  The first time I raised eggs I used both (in the appropriate doses, of course!) whereas, by contrast, some people don’t use any.  There is literature available, which suggests that there is a direct link between fry death rate and the use of these chemicals, I will source it and add it at a later date for your consideration.  This time I have decided to use just acriflavin, which is commonly used in larger doses in ponds.  Literally one or two drops is sufficient, however this does depend on your hatchery size.

Grow out tank – To be discussed in more detail later.  The main issue here is ensuring that you have enough space to safely grow the fry on to decent sizes.  Initially, this tank doubles up as a thermal stabiliser, add the heater and filtration to this tank then place you hatchery inside, resulting in the hatchery temperature being maintained, as well as having a regular source of fish-safe water for the water changes.

Air stone - When it comes to the air pump for the air stone, where possible buy a dual outlet pump, as the other outlet well be useful later.  The air stone needs to be placed inside the hatchery, to ensure that the water is circulating over the eggs.  I have heard of the debate about having the bubbles in direct contact with the eggs, but I can say, from my experience, it makes no difference, so long as there is circulation.

Tights and Sponge – These are for the filter inlet in the grow out tank, either or both will suffice…most people use a sponge filter in their grow-out tank, I’m going to try my canister filter this time, as it will provide superior filtration (I also have UV in-line with filter), but I’ll just have to be careful to ensure that the flow isn’t too high for the fry.

Brine shrimp hatcheries and salt – in order to successfully get the fry to eat, moving food is best…cue baby brine shrimp!  From just after the free-swimming stage, the fry need to be fed regularly and often as their stomachs are so small.  As a result, I’d recommend two brine shrimp hatcheries which are started on alternating days, resulting in one always containing baby brine shrimp (BBS), while the other is 24 hours away.  Some people make DIY hatcheries from drinks bottles, but if you’d prefer the submerged variety, I find the NT Labs ones to be good.  Place the two hatcheries into the grow out tank and start preparing BBS one day before they need it (around the free-swimming stage). Ensure you also buy a funnel!

Once these are set up, you’re good to go…

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